To be level, the bubble should be perfectly centered between the two black lines on the glass tube itself. I know that most people would be satisfied if the bubble were anywhere between the lines, but I feel as though it's just like writing your signature of approval on it for all visitors to see..
The string is then moved down so that the bottom cross beam of the second trellis can be aligned with the first one installed. A line level is very handy for providing a means for keeping them both on the same plane, but the twine really needs to be pulled very taught for accuracy.
Now that the framework for both trellises is completed, it's time to install some type of material that will span the crossbeams.
I prefer to use the wire mesh indicated in the picture below. It's available at the Lowes garden center, and does everything that it needs to in my garden. The connecting points of the wire are strong enough to hold a 20 lb. melon without bending from the weight on the nylon slings, and a 50 ft. roll goes a long way in the garden.
These poultry net staples are what's used to fasten the wire mesh to the cross beams, and can be found next to the nails in the Lowes hardware section. Since the two points are usually spread outward quite a bit, I always close the gap before using them by laying each against a hard surface of some kind - then tapped with a hammer until the points are parallel to each other. This makes them easier to drive into the wood before bending occurs.
Now measure the range of suitable lengths for the wire mesh to be so that spanning the cross beams can be performed, then cut the mesh with a pair of cutting pliers so that no sharp points are left. Once completed with cutting out the section, I always begin by attaching it to the top beam first. Working from the center-outward eliminates kinks in the mesh as it's fastened, which of course makes for a more appealing job in the end.
Apply a staple about every 6" - as indicated in the picture below for great results, at least in my opinion.
If constructing a trellis wider than the roll of wire mesh purchased, this means you'll need to install numerous cut pieces to meet your needs. Mine are lined up as perfectly as possible, and doing so makes the finished result look really good.
Remember the pieces of wire that had to be trimmed off when making the next piece from the wire mesh roll? Those are to be saved for connecting the two different pieces of wire mesh with.
The short pieces of scrap wire are looped around the connection point of both wire mesh "panels", then twisted by pliers until relatively tight. This is a great use for scrap material, and also prohibits separation between the two. For reference, these are installed every 6" down.
Here's the first trellis completed, and ready for service.
And here's both trellises ready for next year's tomatoes.
Although only 5ft tall, plants can be allowed to grow all the way to the top where strips of cloth will attach them - then allowed to continually grow downward. Besides, who needs plants longer than 8-10 feet? I know that I don't. I hope this project has been helpful to some of you, and I'm more than glad to show ya how I do things. It may not always be the most popular way to build something, but I can guarantee it'll be the most durable.
"Built EG strong"
Take care, and happy building